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Water and Chlorine

CRYPTOSPORIDIUM

CRYPTOSPORIDIUM

Cryptosporidium, ?crypto? for short, is a widespread, water borne protozoa. If you get infected you get a disease called Cryptosporidiosis and you will get very sick but probably won?t die. If you get Cryptosporidiosis and have or catch nearly any other series disease at the same time, including ?regular? influenza you will probably die. However, if you get Cryptosporidiosis and Bird Flu, you will surely die.

In discussing Cryptosporidium, it is worth noting that there is a similar pathogen called Giardia, which is just as widespread, if not more so, and which causes Giardiasis and is another disease you do not want to be catching either. However, in the grand scheme of things, Giardia is not quite as bad as Crypto and any mediation efforts done for Crypto will automatically take care of Giardia. In fact, many of the efforts to eradicate Crypto will also take care of most pathogens, with the possible exception of a virus.

Cryptosporidium is already in the raw water of most municipal water supplies as nearly all surface water sources are polluted with Crypto and it is getting worse every year. Crypto has a life cycle where its eggs, called cysts, have a nearly impenetrable hard outer shell. In this stage it is VERY HARD to kill. As a result your municipal water source has added or increased the methods used to try to kill it and usually added additional and very extensive filtering to prevent it from getting through and coming out your tap.

Occasionally, however, something goes wrong and, as a result of Cryptosporidium, bad things can happen to a lot of people. In the Milwaukee incident, 400,000 people were infected, thousands hospitalized, and hundreds died. Many of those who were infected never completely recovered and have lasting side affects. Smaller Crypto infections are occurring with increasing frequency every year, including recent outbreaks in Nevada, Oregon and Georgia.

The reason you are even reading this paper is because you expect to be in a situation where the water coming out of your tap is suspect or there is no water coming out of your tap and most likely the alternative source of water that you will be using is polluted. If that water is surface water there is a high probability that it is already infected with Cryptosporidium. As the Milwaukee incident revealed however, it does not take an outside factor to occur for you to get infected with Cryptosporidium.

How hard are Cryptosporidium cysts to kill? As noted in Disinfection and oocyst survival ?Few commercial disinfectants are effective against the oocysts, nor is chlorination at normal drinking water treatment levels? and one study noted that ?long-term exposure to 70-100% bleach is necessary to completely eliminate infectivity? and ?3% chlorine as Na hypochlorite for up to 18 h does not affect viability.? Another report noted that ?crypto cysts suspended in 5.25% aqueous Na hypochlorite (full-strength Clorox bleach) for up to 2 h still initiated infection.?

For more information on Cryptosporidium, see: A Review of Cryptosporidiosis and Cryptosporidium parvum: an emerging pathogen

What will disinfect water of Cryptosporidium? According to the Army:
Chlorine: Ineffective, even at high CT values. (CT= Concentration X Time in mg minutes per liter)

Chlorine Dioxide: Effective at high CT values. If possible, use longer contact times instead of higher dosages to achieve adequate CT values. Colder water temperatures require higher CT values. Use a two-fold increase in CT for every 10? C decrease.

Iodine: Not Effective

UV: Effective at reasonable doses.

The bottom line for our emergency water scenarios is that there is nothing you can add to polluted water to be 100% sure of killing Cryptosporidium, despite what others may be saying. The only viable additive solution for our purposes that might POSSIBLY kill Cryptosporidium is Chlorine Dioxide, covered in the Chemical section, below.

However, all is not lost. Crypto can be killed with heat and is relatively easy to filter out of water. The heating methods are discussed immediately below and for filtering all you need is a mechanical filter with an absolute pore size of 2 microns, ideally 1 micron. This is covered in the Filter section.

When selecting a filtration system for Cryptosporidium, the system should have one or all of the following characteristics (Juranek, 1995):
? it can remove particles that are 0.1-1 micrometers in size
? filters water by reverse osmosis
? it has an "absolute" 1-micron filter
? meets NSF standard no. 53 for "cyst removal"

On the other hand, filters that have the following characteristics do NOT guarantee >99% removal of Cryptosporidium oocysts (Juranek, 1995):
? filters with a "nominal" 1-micron rating
? only employs ultraviolet light
? uses only activated carbon for filtration
? utilizes pentiodide-impregnated resins
? it is listed as effective against the Giardia species

All this and more in my (free and I'm not selling any thing) Water Report. ~95 pages. Send me ane-mail to get a copy. pwag@lycos.com
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

if you use clorox get the plain. do not use the lemon scented. use a dropper.
8 drops will completely clean the water. if you get the water from a dirty scource, such as a creek. let the water settle for a while, then pour into another container. add the clorox. after a few hours it is safe to drink.
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

Doesn't household chlorine degrade VERY rapidly ?

Something like losing 90 pecent of it's effectiveness over a year's time.

I'm trying to find something to store for water purification for my
fire department that.

1. has a long shelf life
2. doesn't require a special storage building and hazmat permits

So far we are using bleach, but I have to come up with a rotation plan
and how to get rid of what we rotate.

Anything better out there ?

We're semi-rural, so it's mostly a small lake, swimming pools and boxed artesian springs.

We have one deep well at the station, but i'm not counting on power for the pump.
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

Speedbump: look into two part chlorine dioxide. If you would like, send me an e-mail and I'll send you all the info I've collected on chlorine dioxide. It appears to be better in many ways than using chlorine bleach.

pfwag@lycos.com
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

Pfwag said:
Speedbump: look into two part chlorine dioxide. If you would like, send me an e-mail and I'll send you all the info I've collected on chlorine dioxide. It appears to be better in many ways than using chlorine bleach.

pfwag@lycos.com

That's the stuff that beer brewer's use for disinfection correct ?

I'm definitely leaning toward storing that for both water treatment, and enviornmental decon after calls in the event of avian flu pandemic.
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

Probably so. One of the best prices I found for it was from a home-brewing supply company.
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

Hi All

My question is we have a very deep well. A manual hand pump, well tap or bucket are not options at this depth. If we are supposed to be preparing for a "18 month global winter" how to do it? A generator will need a lot of fuel for that period.

The stand alone solar options that I have seen so far do not work and play well with the rest of my appliances that work off the grid. Anyone have any specific solar suggestions? Yes a 3.5 horse pump with solar panels can probably provide us with enough water. My question is how to integrate it with an existing grid system? I do not want to risk frying my hot water heater or pissing off my spouse because he does not have shower water (preferably warm) because I forgot to flip a switch.

I would love to switch the house completely over to solar but can not handel the price tag at this time. It would be great to know how to do this with out putting out the cash for an inverter and yet have a practical home system that could be added on to with the goal of eventually switching the entire house over and getting off the grid.

My patient loving spouse see flu preparation as a quirk of mine and humors me accordingly.

In our house hold this is going to be a major out lay so we can not afford an "Oops!". We really need to get this right the first time.
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

To run the whole house will cost between $18,000 to $22,000. There are small cabin system out there for $5,000 +/-. These systems will run a small effient ref and a few room of lights and a TV.

The amount of run time you get from a system depends on the number of your panels and the size of your battery pack.

Also the life of your batteries depends on the amount you draw from the pack each day. Use 10 percent of battery packs capacity and you get to recharge the pack 2000 times. Draw all the juice out of the battery pack each day and you might get 50 to 75 recharges (days).

I live in the corner of Georgia and Tennesse, my system has 10 panels (102 watts each), 14 batteries (12 volt deep cycle), a controller and a inverter. Total was $4500 plus a lot of sweat equity. The best I am planning on is running a small undercounter ref. and 4 room of lights and a tv for 4 hr. a night.

You hubby will not get his hot bath without heating water over a camp fire. You will get a lot of promises out there but not much substance.
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

Hi Solarpanel

It may just be my suspicious nature but I have heard some interesting "promises" out there too. Promises that make me think some of these firms might better be named "Catchem, Fleasem and Scram".

Your numbers sound right to me. Last time we had an audit done is was projected at about 23K to convert our home to solar. However, I think I can get a stand alone solar system without an inverter (with battery storage) for about 4K. If I do I hope to get several bladder tanks for additional water storage and to help maintain pressure between times the pump is run. My problem is how do I integrate it with my home on the grid? I can not seem to get clear answers from anyone on this. I feel like I am trying to mix water and oil.

What I want is for some answer that will automatically trip the well pump on when the pressure drops below a certain pressure and an alert to let us know that we need to back off water use cause the batteries are low.

Another problem seems to be I have to commit to going solar. I can not have a grid pump and a solar pump on the same well because two different pumps and different wiring is required for each.
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

With out all the detail, I have to assume the details.

The grid is AC power and the solar system produces DC power. The two are not compatable without an inverter. The inverter changes the DC power into AC current.

There are switches that will switch from the grid to the batteries (with an inverter) that will power your power panel in your house. BUT when the switch changes the panel from the grid to the batteries, everything that is drawing power from the grid at the time of the switch will draw power from the batteries. If your battery pack is not large enought the batteries will be drained in short order.

The are devices that are called load controls that can limit which pieces of equipment have access to the battery pack when the system switches from the battery pack. The problem your are going to run into is that the more complex your system the more it cost.

I choose to keep it simple and keep the cost down. You must understand your system and have back up parts (controller and inverters), because when it goes down ther will be no one to fix it but you.
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

Hi Solarpanel

I agree. In a pandemic we will be on our own. Trying to learn solar is a stretch for me. I am still close to the beginning of the curve.

What I am looking to do is have a stand alone DC solar system not connected with the grid or my house electrical box (AC - alternating current). This is probably why there is so much confusion. If the entire solar well system is stand alone and DC there is no call for an inverter that adds a significant expense to the system. For the solar system as far as I know, I would need a DC well pump, cable, batteries and panels.

What would tie in with the house would be the plumbing (water) from the DC solar pump going to the hot water heater (AC) and the taps.

What I am wondering is, is there a way to have some sort of sensor on the pressure tanks that will flip the DC - direct current well pump on when the pressure in the bladder tanks gets low? Say the house pressure is set to 15 PSI (pounds per square inch) or 10 PSI and the system will turn on when it gets to 5 PSI or what ever and bring the pressure in the tanks back up to 15 PSI?

I am also wondering if there is any sort of alarm I could add to the DC system that would alert us to when the power in the solar system batteries was low so we would know to back off on water use?

Another alternative (which I am not sure is viable) would be to keep my AC well pump in the well and add a DC solar well pump to the same well. So if the power goes down we could switch to the solar system.

Our well is over 300 feet deep so a hand pump or bucket is not an option.

As for backup parts.... I am not there yet. I am still trying to figure out how it all works and what will work best for us.
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

I am sure the are switchs available for your needs, but you are beyond my level of knowledge. But, I think that by the time you buy the additional pump, the additional piping, additional electrical wiring and switches for the second pump you will have paided for the cost of an inverter. This is assuming you can get a second pump in your well pipe.

I did not go with the high dollar inverter recommended by the vendor, I when with a lesser cost unit.

You need to keep reading and comparing systems and components. It is pretty striagh forward stuff.

Sorry
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

Thanks for the hands-on information, Solarpanel. :)

Amish Country, I have only limited experience with solar power so take my comments for what they are worth.

One possibility for your water situation is to get another bladder or find some way to pump and store your water "upstream" using your excess power (AC or DC). Then use the "head" from your stored water to generate additional DC power by using a small hydro generator to charge your batteries when you need additional water or when it is too cloudy to generate solar power. Make the water do double duty for you.
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

Hi All
Thanks for the comments. After some discussion, research and a close look at the bank account we decided to go with a generator with an outside plug in and a transfer box taken off our main electrical box. We are not going for a whole house generator. We are going with one that will handel the well pump and maybe one other appliance (depending on the appliance) at the same time. The transfer box will allow us to transfer between several appliances by flipping fuses, manually. Automatic would be nice but with our budget and what is going on in the world, this is a time to be frugal not fancy. Hopefully the smaller size generator will allow us to stretch our small supply of fuel to last a longer time.

Thanks again for your information.
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

In the event of a pandemic we will see failures of water purifying plants.

I think it should be made mandatory that all city, state and federal parks drill and maintain a sufficient number of hand pump water wells to fulfill the public's need for clean, pure water.
Schoolyards, hospitals, hotels, apartment buildings, highway rest areas, and municipal buildings should each have a hand pump water well on their premises also.

It is impossible and much too costly to truck enough water into every large metropolitan area and small town during a prolonged crisis. Many people will die of dehydration and water-born illnesses if there is insufficient pure water available to them.

More info on water wells:
http://www.ngwa.org/wellstandard/main.cfm
http://www.nsf.org/consumer/drinking_water/dw_well.asp?program=WaterTre
http://www.wellowner.org/
http://www.isgs.uiuc.edu/wwdb/index.htm
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

Sorry Jonesie

I realize that there maybe comfort found in the idea of drilling lots of hand pump wells and I appreciate the problem and the depth of the disaster the lack of safe drinking water could cause exspecially in metropolitan areas.

Putting in lots of unmonitored hand pumps, tapping water from polluted below ground aquifers is not the solution.

In those areas with safe potable water in their aquifers, that can be extracted using a hand pump, this will be a wonderful solution. Even so, these wells shoud be monitored and the water tested periodically to ensure it is safe to drink.
 
Last edited:
Re: Water and Chlorine

Putting in lots of unmonitored hand pumps, tapping water from polluted below ground aquifers is not the solution.

It is the solution for millions of Americans. Lowering mortality and morbity is the goal of many in Flutrackers, and sometimes this entails studying alternative water sources to meet the needs of the public.

Perhaps water drawn from the polluted sources in some areas is not the answer for the local population, but in vast areas of the country where polluted aquifers are non-existant it is. Here is where more wells can be drilled to serve those residents during the months when their water filtration plants may be forced to shut down.

Trucking vast amounts of water (food too) to try to serve the needs of all Americans during an emergency is impossible. Gasoline supplies are expected to dwindle by 80%. And up to 1/2 of our trucks may stand idle for lack of drivers.

The installation of one well in each little town and each big city park across the country will save million of lives. Otherwise, thirsty people will turn to standing water, which contains many pollutants and parasites. Waterborne illnesses will then kill many Americans.

Existing wells are tested in Federal and State parks. They hire individuals to service and maintain the grounds and improvements to the grounds. Parks are not abandoned acreage. And most do have 'monitored' water wells in place, but not enough to serve the needs of the residents surrounding the parks, in the event water is not available from filtration plants.

To avoid vandalism, wells can be drilled and capped, then opened for use during an emergency.

The EPA (ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY) maintains a nice informative website for those individuals who wish to protect the health of themselves and their neighbors. Just click on your state to find the status of water in your area.

Here one can get the needed info on the conditions of aquifers and wells in each state.

http://www.epa.gov/safewater/privatewells/whereyoulive_state.html#mo

And the PHSMA Office of Pipeline Safety
has a lot of good info on aquifers:
http://ops.dot.gov/init/usa/dwwater.htm

DRINKING WATER RESOURCES BY STATE:
http://ops.dot.gov/init/usa/dw/dw.htm#al
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

For individuals who are considering drilling a well in the US here are online sources for additional information from the EPA - US Environmental Protection Agency concerning super fund pollution sites in the US.


NPL (National Priority List) list
http://www.epa.gov/superfund/sites/npl/npl.htm

http://cfpub.epa.gov/supercpad/cursites/srchsites.cfm

http://www.epa.gov/superfund/sites/products/index.htm

Please note how many of these are located, clustered, around and in METROPOLITAN AREAS. Please also note that they will probably NOT include many sites of pollution left over from the age of the industrial revolution maybe going back 100 or 200 years that may have polluted the below ground water sources.

It will not include cemeteries or burial grounds, mass graves from small pox, yellow fever etcetera from the 1500's, 1600's, 1700's or later that may be unmarked on the surface of the ground. Some cemeteries of the poor, Native Americans and slaves were buried on land marked only by a wooden boards, mounds and maybe broken bottles and crockery. Knowledge of these sites "may" be in living memory of the older generation but it is disappearing fast. I know from my own personal experience of a slave era cemetery and a Native American burial place that have now disappeared into housing developments in what was once a rural area. I would not want to put my well there.

In many areas of the country water is located to deep in the ground to be accessed by a hand pump.

This is just a very small selection of surprises that can await underground. Anyone or municipality considering drilling a well in search of safe drinking water should carefully research all proposed well sites.
 
Re: Water and Chlorine

Because the power is expected to go out for months at a time during a pandemic, the farmers in my area with existing water wells are installing hand pumps to water their livestock and supply their personal use.

Hand pumps are available for deep wells going down as far as 300'.
The equipment for shallow wells is less costly.

Compare prices, they do vary considerably for the same equipment. Here is a source with diagrams to give you an idea of what the equipment looks like for a NEW WELL:
http://www.survivalunlimited.com/handwaterpumpdeep.htm

Pumping Basics for Deep Wells

NOTE: Type of pump head may differ from the picture on left but installation requirements are the same.

If water is less than 300 ft down: You need four basic components to raise water from these depths.
1) The pump-head is the part you see above ground and provides the pumping action. Ours work on any well (dug or drilled). Some can be used with windmills.
2) The cylinder is the heart of the system. It contains the valves and leathers or seals that provide the lift. Place in well below water level. Most work best with a foot valve. The cylinder you choose must fit into your well casing.
3) The drop pipe extends from the pump to the cylinder. We recommend galvanized steel or PVC (Plastic). (Steel is the traditional favorite, but plastic is less expensive, much lighter and will never rust.)
4) The pump rod runs from the pump to the cylinder inside the drop pipe. It provides the linkage that transfers the pumping action from pump-head to cylinder.
All our deep well components are USA made to the highest standards.
For pumping from 9'-300' use our Stainless Pump Head w/Cylinder Set, or for pumping from 0'-100' you can use our "Good? Deep Well Pump Head w/Cylinder set, or our stainless steel unit with the 1-12" cylinder.

If your well is much deeper than 300', (to 600') then a solar pump may be useful:

http://www.survivalunlimited.com/sunrisewaterpump.htm
http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_waterpumping.html



THERE ARE HAND PUMPS FOR EXISTING WELLS WITH ELECTRIC PUMPS. BOTH ARE INSTALLED SIDE BY SIDE AND WILL WORK INDEPENDANTLY OF EACH OTHER.
http://www.jatsgreenpower.com/water-pump-sp.html

Again, there are a lot of companies supplying pumps and drilling wells, so look around to find the one that best suits your needs.

If you are thinking of drilling a new well, Montana's website has a lot of useful information:
http://dnrc.mt.gov/wrd/water_op/bwwc/pdfs/waterwelldrillowner.pdf


On the farm I once owned we had 2 water wells. One was a 90' shallow well with a hand pump. The water was the greatest. We carried it into the house every day for drinking and cooking. The other was installed for the livestock. It was a much deeper well, 250', had an electric pump, and was very hard mineral water. We piped it into the house for laundry and bathing.

:applause:
 
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