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  • #16
    Re: LIGHTING

    Originally posted by Possibilities View Post
    This might be a way to inexpensively use solar to charge up a reserve across a capacitor bank and then discharge it slowly across the LED to dispel light into a room. You'd need a protective box to house the capacitor(s) and a circuit for charging them up, and have a directional housing outside the box to direct the light. It may not be practical nor cheap, but I suspect that it would be both. Any electronic folks out there?
    Capacitors as an adjunct to or a substitute for traditional batteries are being investigated and developed as part of the solar power industry. Many individuals are doing this on their own, but China in particular has funded development. Wikipedia has a good article on the science involved in it.

    I've played a bit with old capacitors left over from the days of building things with individual components rather than IC's. Several of the folk on the Yahoo 12v mailing list have extensive experience with them.

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    • #17
      Re: LIGHTING

      This product looks good:
      http://www.sollight.com/products/lc2003.cfm

      As does this:

      http://www.lifegearcompany.com/q_l3_home.html

      I like that the sollight needs no extra equipment like batteries since it's all built in.

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      • #18
        Re: LIGHTING

        Thank you Possibilities for posting the link to SolLight.

        After looking at them, I found that the LightCap 300 is more powerful and comes with the water bottle for $29.95. The LightShip looks like it would be perfect as a nightlight for bathrooms.

        The shipping charges at the SolLight site seemed high, but I found a reseller at Amazon that had more reasonable shipping charges and perfect feedback.
        I just ordered two LightCap 300 that we can use on the front porch and back patio even while we have power and two LightShip that can be used as nightlights in the bathrooms.

        "There's a chance peace will come in your life - please buy one" - Melanie Safka
        "The greatest way to live with honor in this world is to be what we pretend to be" - Socrates

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        • #19
          Re: LIGHTING

          Different types of lantern fuel

          Pure paraffin (wax) oil (aka Ultra-Pure, Nowell's, etc.,) is marketed as "smokeless and odorless" lamp oil, but is improperly labeled in the United States for use in wick lamps and lanterns. In fact, it will not burn properly in lamps or lanterns with 5/8" or larger wick, and will create smoke and odor. Paraffin oil has a flash point in excess of 200 degrees Fahrenheit, and will only burn half as bright as standard lamp oil or kerosene, and will sputter in lamps with deep founts, or that have 7/8" or larger wick. It is suitable for use in candle lamps, similar to those used in restaurants. Paraffin oil is not recommended for use in antique lamps or lanterns as the higher ignition temperature may result in damage to the lamp. Pure paraffin oil can solidify in environments below room temperature, greatly limiting its suitability for outdoor or emergency use. Drug store mineral oil is paraffin oil. (NOTE: "Paraffin" in the UK is "Kerosene" in the United States, and should not be confused with the "Paraffin" wax oil sold in the U.S.A..)

          Generic lamp oil is widely available in supermarkets and hardware stores. It is usually less expensive than pure paraffin oil, but costs more than kerosene. Lamp oil burns cleaner and with less odor than kerosene.

          K-1 Kerosene is more easily available in bulk than lamp oil in most countries and is typically much cheaper. However, kerosene contains more impurities such as sulfur and aromatic hydrocarbons than lamp oil. Kerosene obtained from filling stations is more likely to be contaminated with water than kerosene obtained in prepackaged containers. The odors produced by burning kerosene in wick lamps can be quite objectionable indoors.

          Red Kerosene Is slightly less expensive than K-1 Kerosene, as no road taxes are collected on it. It is generally available in bulk at filling stations in agricultural areas for use in farm tractors or Diesel Generators. Never put it in your diesel car, as steep fines can result.

          Kleen-Heat-A cleaner burning, nicer smelling Kerosene substitute, Sold at hardware stores during winter.

          Biodiesel Is a clean burning "green" alternative to kerosene. Biodiesel packaged for lamp burning is best purchased to avoid biodiesel / diesel mixtures available at the majority of biodiesel gas pumps.

          Citronella oil can be burned in wick lamps outdoors, but will produce some smoke and soot, and will foul the wick quickly, and may be easily extinguished by a slight breeze if flame is exposed (as in a yard torch). To improve wick life and make citronella burn cleaner, it can be mixed 50:50 with kerosene. The residue from burning citronella oil is difficult to remove, so it is not recommended for use in a valued lamp.

          Motor KeroseneOr Tractor Vaporizing Oil, very hard to find now days, try to find it at a feed store or near a farming community. This can be used, but use it sparingly, it may be expensive.

          Sometimes dyes and fragrances are added to fuels which can increase soot deposits on glass globes/chimneys, and reduce wick life. Some manufactures have even created special novelty formulations that will cause the flame to burn a different color.

          Emergency Substitutes
          Kerosene lamps under ideal conditions should only be operated with kerosene or lamp oil, but alternative fuels may be used in an emergency.

          Mineral spirits aka "Paint Thinner" has a flash point of 110 degrees Fahrenheit, making it highly flammable and possibly explosive. It should not be used in any wick lamps or lanterns.

          Diesel Fuel and home heating oil has a flash point greater than 200 degrees Fahrenheit, and will not burn properly in conventional wick lamps/lanterns. Most Diesel fuels have a fairly high sulfur content and contain fuel additives that produce toxic by-products if burned in a lamp. They also produce more soot than kerosene.

          Jet A Is safe to use, it is essentially kerosene with a few harmless additives, does burn great in wick lamps.

          You can even use lubricating oil, use the oil in the bottle, not in the aerosol cans. Use Outdoors or in well ventilated area.

          olive oil or canola oil can be used in lamps designed for use with such oils, but will not burn in conventional wick lamps or lanterns.

          Charcoal lighter fluid usually is suitable for wick lamps/lanterns; most brands are kerosene. Be certain however to use only the type intended for starting charcoal briquettes. The lighter fluid intended for cigarette lighters is naphtha, which is highly flammable and dangerous in a wick lamp.

          Hazardous Fuels
          Gasoline There are some harmful vapors and aromatics that come with gasoline. There is a risk of house fire and explosion. Though this is common in some Third world countries, You should never attempt it.
          Naphtha Naphtha is a very corrosive and toxic substance, is highly falmmable and gives off nasty compounds when burned.
          Rubbing alcohol Gives off a detestable odor when burned, and can cause respiratory distress.
          Mineral oil Gives off toxic vapor.
          Castor oil Burns at a very high temperature.
          http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerosene_lamp

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