Eggs-pose

[Snowy Owl]

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Eggs-pose

Tales of abuse not always what they're cracked up to be

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Ron Eade, The Ottawa Citizen

Published: Wednesday, October 18, 2006
http://www.canada.com/ottawacitizen/news/sports/story.html?id=951ad5ff-2143-4a06-a8d8-7fc023afcc6c

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Try as I might, I couldn't spot much intelligence behind the darting eyes of three hens caged in a massive barn along with 36,000 feathered friends. It's all part of an enormous egg-producing complex known to this part of the world as Burnbrae Farms, but more simply to me as my source of breakfast protein.

Located in ***, Ontario, just west of *******, it is by any measure a gargantuan operation producing/processing some 1.5 million eggs a day that go out under 30 private- and brand-name labels.

You name it, and if it's eggy then Canada's leading producer makes it: Small eggs, extra-large eggs, brown ones, white ones, free-run eggs, eggs from hens in cages, organic eggs, eggs high in omega-3 fatty acids, eggs in shells and liquid egg whites that come in boxes.

Burnbrae even makes hard-cooked eggs that are gently tumbled in hot water so the yolks are exactly dead-centre (such is the extent to which fussy gastronomes apparently go).

My visit to eggland was organized by the Guelph-based Ontario Farm Animal Council, a non-profit educational group representing livestock and poultry farmers as well as related agri-food groups and businesses.

It is the council's mission in life to tell the producers' side of the agricultural story, and in recent years, let's face it, egg farmers have had their share of bad press.

First, the medical profession years ago advised that everyone should stay away from eggs lest they drop dead from cholesterol lurking in the yolks. Later, the good doctors recanted by admitting, gee, eggs aren't so bad after all -- rather, it's all that sugar and salt and trans-fats in our unbalanced diets.

Now eggs are regarded almost as a health food, enriched in so many clever ways by feeding the hens diets with omega-3 flax meal, organic grains and the like. Today's egg is beauty, nutrition and flavour all rolled into one. It is a marvellous creation.

Still, there are activists who persist in distributing images of pathetic creatures in tiny cages forced to lay an egg a day for an entire year before they are dispatched for final, ahem, processing. Yes, I've seen the movie Chicken Run.

But some people will never rest until humans stop using animals for anything, period.

Thankfully, we in the majority are comfortable with animal products as long as we believe the creatures are treated humanely. And that, I am convinced, is the most reasonable position to take.

I wanted to see a modern egg operation for myself.

I wanted to assess whether I, as a consumer in good conscience, could tolerate a modicum of discomfort in a hapless creature in exchange for wholesome food at reasonable cost -- for that is really what the issue comes down to.

The question is definitely not how I would prefer to be treated if I was a farm animal, because I would never want to be an animal under any circumstance -- not even a pampered cat.

Of 300,000 birds at **** Farms (eggs are also processed here from other farms), only 45,000 or so are considered "free-run." The rest are in cages, each 16 by 20 inches, with three hens to a cage.

Eggs-pose

Tales of abuse not always what they're cracked up to be

On the face of it the numbers and size of cages sound pretty discouraging -- until you see the conditions for yourself.

The "free-run" hens are kept in much larger cages, each with 2,500 birds with perches to provide them with a little recreation, I suppose. They are also given a sheltered, darkened area where they can go to lay their eggs in privacy.

Although these are called "free-run" hens they are definitely not scampering around a barnyard somewhere, and I can tell you for sure there is nobody in gingham cheerfully gathering their eggs in a wicker basket.

Birds are fed four times a day in a safe, temperature-controlled and sheltered environment. The cages support their natural instinct to cluster together in a calm environment, while at the same time protecting hens against injury from more aggressive birds that are inevitably present (also known as the "pecking order").

Cages are designed to keep manure separate from the hens and the eggs, so they are remarkably clean. Fresh water is available on demand, simply by pecking on a spigot.

Those who believe birds are routinely pumped with drugs and fed growth hormones will be relieved to know neither is the case. In fact, the use of hormones in poultry in Canada is illegal.

Only hens that require therapeutic antibiotics are given drugs, on prescription by a veterinarian -- and never while they're laying eggs for human consumption. (In reality, antibiotics haven't been used at the ***** farm in **** for at least five years, thanks to strict biosecurity controls.

Few people are ever allowed into the barn, and those who are must wear a special clean suit to safeguard the birds against contamination from outside.)

John Heuthorst, *****'s director of poultry operations, says it makes economic sense to treat animals humanely -- if only because a distressed animal is an unhealthy and unproductive animal. "If we don't treat our animals well, they won't treat us well.

"If you take good care of your animals, they will produce."

But, you may wonder, aren't the hens bored silly just standing around all day?

To which I answer the question with another question: must we assume farm animals have the same wants, desires and aspirations as human beings who take their lifestyle cues from Oprah every day?
"I don't know what happens in a chicken's mind," Mr. Heuthorst says. "But the behaviourists feel that an animal is happy if it is producing."

And, believe me, these birds are producing.

"People try to equate animals to people, and that's a problem."

Eggs 101
Nutrition highlights:

• There are no nutritional differences between brown eggs and white eggs.

• Eggs contain all nine essential amino acids, making them a complete protein food.

• Eggs are one of the few foods that naturally contain vitamin D. The yolk is the major source of the egg's vitamins and minerals.

• One to two eggs provide one serving from the Meat and Alternatives group in Canada's Food Guide to Healthy Eating.

• Eggs are part of the Heart and Stroke Foundation of Canada's Health Check program, designed to help consumers make wise food choices.

• A study by the Harvard School of Public Health found no significant link between eating eggs and developing cardiovascular disease in healthy individuals. When it comes to cardiovascular disease, it's the saturated fats and trans-fats found in pastries, snacks, processed foods and any foods containing hydrogenated oils that raise blood cholesterol levels.

How to tell if an egg is fresh:

As long as the eggs have been handled properly, the best-before date on the carton gives a good indication of freshness. A fresh egg in its shell will sink in water, while an old egg will float. When it is cracked open, the yolk of a fresh egg will be round and will sit up high. The white will be thick and will closely surround the yolk. In an older egg, the yolk will be flat and will break easily, and the white will be thin and watery.
Can eggs be eaten after the best-before date?

If they have been refrigerated, eggs can be eaten for a short time after the best-before date. Keep in mind the best-before date (28 to 42 days from packaging) indicates the length of time the eggs will maintain their Grade A quality.

How to store eggs:

Keep them in their carton on a shelf in the main body of your refrigerator, not in the egg compartment on the refrigerator door where the cool temperature is not consistent.

Is it safe to eat raw or soft-cooked eggs?

Yes, as long as eggs are handled properly. Always use fresh Grade A eggs that have been kept refrigerated. The best-before date on the carton will determine freshness. Ensure the egg is clean and the shell is not cracked. The risk of bacterial contamination from a raw or under-cooked egg is extremely small, but as with any food it is not impossible. Very young children, the elderly, those with weakened immune systems and pregnant women should be extra-cautious and not eat raw or soft-cooked eggs.

How long can a hard-cooked egg be kept?

Either peeled or in the shell, hard-cooked eggs will keep one week in a covered container in the refrigerator.

How long can pickled eggs be kept?

Homemade pickled eggs can be stored one month in the refrigerator.
Source: Canadian Egg Marketing Agency

Greek Omelette

Serves 3
- 4 eggs
- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) water
- Hot pepper sauce, to taste
- Freshly ground pepper, to taste
- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) olive oil
- 4 green onions, trimmed and chopped
- 1 plum tomato, seeded and chopped
- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) fresh mint, chopped
- 1/4 cup (50 mL) feta cheese, crumbled

1. In a bowl beat together eggs, water, hot pepper sauce and pepper.

2. In a large nonstick skillet, heat oil over high heat. Pour in egg mixture
and cook over medium-high heat until edges are just set.

3. Sprinkle green onions, tomato, mint and feta cheese over eggs. Reduce heat to low, cover and cook until eggs are nearly set.

4. Using 2 spatulas, flip over opposite sides of omelette to meet in centre.
Turn out onto a platter and serve.

Breakfast in a Rush

Serves 1
- 2 eggs
- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) milk
- Pinch, dried basil or Italian seasoning
- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) shredded cheddar cheese
- 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) chopped parsley (optional)

1. In a microwave-safe mug, beat together eggs, milk and seasonings. Cover loosely with plastic food wrap, poking a hole in the top to vent steam.

2. Microwave on medium-high (70 per cent) for 1 to 11/2 minutes. Remove plastic wrap and stir. Sprinkle with cheese and parsley; cover and let stand 1 minute.

Tip: For breakfast on the go, cut a whole pita bread in half and spoon egg mixture into both pockets.

Variations: After beating eggs, add any one of the following: chopped green onions, chopped sweet peppers, chopped cooked vegetables or meat. May also substitute shredded mozzarella, Monterey Jack, colby or Swiss cheese for the cheddar.

Pickled Eggs

Makes 6 eggs
- 6 hard-cooked eggs, peeled
For the vinegar brine:
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) vinegar
- 1 cup (250 mL) water
- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) sugar
- 3/4 teaspoon (4 mL) salt
- 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) peppercorns
- 5 whole cloves
- 1/2 bay leaf
- 1 dried chili pepper

1. Place hard-cooked eggs in a clean jar. In a small saucepan, combine vinegar brine ingredients, cover and bring to a boil.

2. Simmer 10 minutes over low heat, then strain liquid and cool to room temperature.

3. Cover eggs with vinegar solution. Cover jar with lid and let stand in refrigerator at least 2 days before sampling.

Hard and Soft-Cooked Eggs

Place cold eggs in a single layer in a saucepan. Cover with at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of cold tap water over top of eggs. Cover saucepan and bring to boil over high heat.

Remove pan immediately from heat to stop boiling. Let eggs stand in the water, covered, for 3 minutes for soft-cooked eggs and 15 to 18 minutes

Drain water; immediately serve soft eggs, or run cold water over hard eggs to stop them cooking. Refrigerate and use hard eggs within 1 week.

© The Ottawa Citizen 2006​